Travel documentary: Greenland: 170km of silence [part one: Cognition] CZ/EN
“ I have to sail off, I will not wait anymore.“,
suddenly there was a deadly silence. Finally, the oldest of them said: „Nobody
has ever sailed there, – where do you want to look for a green land? Maybe it does not even exist!“ Erik desegrees: „It does exist and we will find it.“ Erik the Red did find the green land.
And thanks to him, – I am going to take a 170km journey
into the desolate land. Ouch, ouch, ouch…
(a sound of a light pain) I am going to experience the magic of the biggest
island in the world on my own. The magic of a place Eric
was so attracted to. My journey begins now. Day one The only airline that flies to Greenland
is Air Greenland. But it does not offer flights directly from Prague.
First I had to fly to Copenhagen. After an overnight layover I departed at 9 am
and took off into the clouds again – reaching my final
destination Kangerlussuaq. The flight from Copenhagen takes 4.5 hours
and the time difference is minus 4 hours. The interesting thing about this is, that while
traveling through the timezones, – we actually appear in the future for a moment.
However, the time will catch you, eventually. Todays plan had unexpectedly changed after
I took my first step off the plane. I assumed I could buy a fuel canister with burner
at the destination, but suprisingly I found out I was wrong! It would not be a problem in Europe. I would
just gathered a few branches and make a fire. But here? Have I forgot to mention?
There are no trees in Greenland. I was frantically running around Kangerlussuaq
for 3 hours and finally, in a warehouse, I found it. I am standing on a paved road that leads to a harbour.
I travelled on this road for approx. 10 km – and then I took a dirt road up to the hills. Somewhere
up there is the beginning of Arctic Circle Trail – and that is where I am heading. The trail is 155 km
long and will take me to Sisimut. My final destination. I decided to hitchhike and look.
The first car I saw stopped. Mari, 55 year old inhabitant of Sisimiut gave me
a ride to the trail head and also suggested – that I stop by and visit her after my hike. Safe travels. Can you hear it? Is it even possible
to hear an absolute silence? Did Erik hear the same when he
first stepped on this island? I am alone now, all alone. Mari drove me right to the trial. There is a truth
in the saying: Every cloud has a silver lining. If I had not being searching for my camp stove,
I would not have met Mari and if I had not met Mari I would not save my energy.
We can not really talk about „what if“, – but I will need my strenght on every step I take. There is moss growing everywhere, – which makes the hiking more difficult. This is my version of well
packed backpack! The hardest thing to learn was to put it on
and then get myself off the ground. That is absolutely horrible. Och… This is probably the hardest thing
about camping. The sun is up all the time. Mashroooom. I have a GPS with me, so the places I will go through
can be set up on my GPS. The waight of my backpack is approx. 30 kg
and I have to say, I can barely move. I have just realised how much I truly stink.
After six hours hiking I am exhausted. It is strange not to see a sunset nor a sunrise.
Erik the Red was used to this phenomenon, – it is something absolutely new for me. The evening
is coming, it is time to rest. Day two It is around 5:30 am. I was so
fatigued I slept for 10 hours – straight through the midnight sun. The temperature now is between 4 to 5
degrees. I slept without a hat. The more food I eat the lighter my backpack
gets. That´s why I eat like a pig. Oink oink oink… The Greenland climate effects me from the
first night. With all the kilometers – ahead of me I suppose I will loose a few kilograms
from my weight. On the other hand – I need to take in calories during the whole day.
Cookies or just something I like. Every morsel I drop puts me a step behind.
Dates. It may seem like I am – doing a food commercial but if you look over there,
for example, you will see a beautiful lake – shaped like a heart. Then, down the road,
you will find antlers that you can – take home, if you have a wife waiting for you,
or you can scratch your back. I chased the itchy back away pretty easily,
but the backpack is as heavy as yesterday. My body fights against the unfamiliar strain.
And the weather? It is getting worse as well. The upper level winds are so strong the clouds
seem to dance around the sky. At one point – they were so low I thought I could raise
my hand and touch them – but because I am not even 170 cm tall
I came up just a little bit short. I met two people going the opposite
direction with only 40 km left – to their destination. Myself? I have
another 125 km to go. After todays 20 km my feet are acheing.
Massage now would be great. My feet and the weather is not the worst thing
that troubles me. I realised somewhere along – the trail I lost my jacket, and also the trail
is approx. 15 km longer than I expected. I came acrossed two other hikers from
Germany and luckily they found – my jacket and they also informed me
that it is 130km into Sisimiut. I am soaking wet and it keeps rainning. I have spaghetti bolognese today.
Spaghetti from a genuine Italian. A little bit of Asian tee can never hurt anybody. Fifty, After 2 days I travelled 50 kilometres.
16 kilometres by car and the rest hiked. I piched my tent and relaxed under the few sun
beams that made its way through the clouds. In a bit of irony it is darker underneath
the rain clouds than at night. By the way as I am sure all the kids in Greenland
have been thought the story about Erik the Red – the discoverer of Greenland, a man, that thanks to
a power of his will made his dream – come true. As him, I as well went to Greenland
with a strong will. And now I am here – and I will continue my journey as he did.